The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) are pleased to announce the addition of a new IFSC World Cup event in 2022 that will feature the same Boulder & Lead format as that for the Olympic Games Paris 2024.
The event, scheduled to take place in Chongqing, China from 6 to 9 October 2022, will be organised according to the rules of the Boulder & Lead format that were formally presented to all National Federations during a teleconference with IFSC President Marco Scolaris on 17 November 2021.
The scoring system of the Paris 2024 format will be based on performance, with the final score of each athlete being the sum of the points collected in the two phases of the event. The maximum total score is 200 points, evenly distributed between Boulder and Lead.
The main principles of the two phases are as follows:
1. Boulder scoring:
- The maximum score of the Boulder phase is 100;
- There will be four boulders in each round, all featuring two zones and one top;
- The maximum score of each problem is 25 points – athletes will earn 3 points by securing the first zone, then move to 6 points if they secure the second zone, and claim the full 25 points if they secure the top;
- 0.1 point will be deducted for each fall while attempting to top.
2. Lead scoring:
- The maximum score of the Lead phase is 100;
- There will be one Lead route per round, and only the final 30 moves of each route will award points;
- Counting back from the top of the route, the last 15 moves will earn the athlete 5 points each, the previous 10 moves will earn the athlete 2 points each, and the previous five moves will earn the athlete 1 point each;
- Any moves prior to the last 30 will earn the athlete 0 points.
The rules were painstakingly developed over a 15-month period by a Working Group chaired by IFSC Vice President Kobinata Toru, that also included IFSC Vice President Wolfgang Wabel; IFSC Sport Director Silvia Verdolini; IFSC Event Officer Alessandro Di Cato; athletes, coaches, and officials representing several National Federations.
The Boulder & Lead format will make its official debut at the European Championships Munich 2022. The full set of rules will be included in the 2022 version of the IFSC Rules.
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