The Brazil Blog - Charms of Salvador

(ATR) ATR's Aaron Bauer sees a different side of Brazil with a weekend trip to Salvador, an Olympic football host city...

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(ATR)Just a two hour flight north of Rio, Salvador serves as a reminder of Brazil’s colonial past, and a showcase for the rapid development the country has experienced in the past ten years.

Salvador served as one of the host cities for the 2014 World Cup, with the Arena Fonte Nova being built for FIFA’s flagship event. It will host matches for the Olympic tournament, and is the host to the football team of Bahia Esporte Club which plays in Brazil’s second division.

The city is home to just over 2.9 million and is the capital and largest city in the state of Bahia. The airport is located in the northernmost part of the city, and is around a 30-45 minute taxi ride to downtown. International direct flights are limited into Salvador, but the airport serves flights from all over the country.

The city is located on a peninsula that served as the first point of contact for the Portuguese explorers who traveled to what is South America today. The Farol de Barra lighthouse serves as a landmark to those expeditions, and offers panoramic views of both the Atlantic Ocean and All Saints Bay.

Another historical area for the city is the Pelourinho district. Filled with 18th century churches and colonial architecture, it served as the town square and the place where slaves received punishments when Salvador was the capital of Brazil.

Salvador hosts one of the largest carnival celebrations in all of Brazil every year with close to 800,000 tourists visiting the city to take part in the festivities.

The Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bofim is probably the most famous church in the city. Located in the Bofim neighborhood, the church is where pilgrims flock to in order to make wishes for their loved ones. Visitors can buy bundles of different colored "fitas," silk ribbons, and tie them with three knots to themselves or the outer fence of the church to make a wish.

In addition to historic sites, Bahian cuisine is loaded with seafood and hints of African flavors. Unique to the rest of the Brazil, local dishes such as acaraje and moqueca highlight the bountiful seafood found in the area mixed with influences brought over from Africa by the slaves imported into Brazil.

Acaraje is made from a deep-fried bean paste served with fried shrimp and spicy pastes made from chilies, cashews, palm oil, and other mixed ingredients. It is a popular street food in Salvador, and stalls can be found all over the city.

Moqueca is a coconut milk based stew cooked with tomatoes, onions, spices, and dende oil made from palm leaves. Fish and shrimp are then added to cook in the stew and served with more sauces on the side. There are two traditional forms of moqueca from Brazil, with one originating in the state of Bahia. It is served at almost every restaurant, and is a staple for the city.

Public transportation in the city is growing, with the recent construction of two metro lines. Buses serve the city, but for tourists taxis remain the best option.

Travelers going to Salvador should be advised that very few people will speak English, which can make traveling around the city a bit tricky if Portuguese is not spoken. Staff at the large hotels do speak a little English and can facilitate any sightseeing.

Written by Aaron Bauer in Rio de Janeiro

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